Late spring stirs the island awake, with fast greens and a back bay that turns to glass at dawn. Tee off through 245 acres of pine at Shore Gate, carve your first wake behind a Totally Tubular tow boat and watch 100 pounds of taffy stretch in the window at Shriver's, the oldest shop on the boards. Sip coffee under the thatched roof of a Pau Hana tiki boat, paddle the quiet bay on a Heritage Surf board and settle in over a whole lobster pot. Early mornings, unhurried afternoons.